Pyro, named after the Ancient Greek word for fire, is an open flame restaurant in Borough, London, and the first solo venture of Yiannis Mexis. Having worked at several Michelin-starred establishments including The Ledbury, and as head chef at HIDE, Mexis brings his considerable talent, along with a highly skilled team, to this new project. Pyro promises a happy marriage of exceptional cooking with the warmth and largesse of a big Greek Taverna.
On arrival we exit the bustling Southwark Street, and enter a generous terrace, more reminiscent of holidays in Mykonos — perhaps an ode to the island where he spent much of his childhood. The chilled, afterwork crowd are clearly channelling that vibe as they relax, soaking up the unseasonal May sunshine.
We are seated at the counter of the open kitchen, all the better to observe this evening’s open flame performance. There are no fireworks here, just a focussed, competent kitchen staff calmly orchestrated by head chef Rita, alumni of Restaurant Story.
The simple menu uses the best in-season produce and is designed for sharing. It has much to delight and is a homage to Mexis’s Greek roots and his country’s traditions, whilst inventively reimagining the classics. While tempted to order everything, we’re guided by Ruhit, the attentive general manager, who expertly navigates us through the menu, offering advice on the ideal mix of small plates and sharing dishes. We agree we can always order more.
We start with potato pita cooked on the hearth served with a tarama and carob rusk dip. The bread is fluffy and light — without hesitation we order more. The ubiquitous, neon-pink, supermarket taramasalata has done much to damage the reputation of this Greek staple, but Pyro’s tara is an unctuous, pale, creamy delight; the carob rusks add a subtle malty flavour. Tarama’s reputation is restored.
The mussel saganaki offers an avant-garde take on the traditional dish — a diminutive offering of focaccia with a mussel, feta and vine leaf topping. It is a small portion, two to three mouthfuls at most, but delivers seriously intense flavours. The Porthilly oysters, horseradish sauce and dill are a joy, and any concerns that the horseradish might overpower the delicacy of the oyster are soon dismissed.
Torn between the bream and bass dishes, we opt for coal seared seabass with grapefruit and olive oil, and are richly rewarded. We also sample the barbequed octopus, spiced red wine and yellow split pea dish. The octopus is wonderfully tender and melts in the mouth. The split pea puree and red wine add an earthy, deep richness complemented by slivers of pickled pink onion.
A side dish that we both agree we could happily live on for the rest of our lives is the crispy layers potato and skordalia— a puree made with garlic, olive oil, bread and almonds. Rita reveals that the potato chunks are sliced with a mandolin, cooked in layers in the oven with clarified butter and then deep-fried. We greedily dip them into the skordalia. They are oily and salty – crisp on the outside but beautifully fluffy inside. This is just the kind of dish one would want after a dip in the Aegean Sea on a hot afternoon or, if closer to home, to share with friends on a warm London evening. Our second side dish, the grilled long peppers and smoked almond romesco, is also excellent.
We finish with the coffee and chocolate pot topped with shredded halva which arrives served in a traditional Greek briki. For those without a particularly sweet tooth, this is a perfect end to the meal.
Throughout the meal we sip Domino de Requena cava — perfect for a summer evening. Pyro offers an unfussy drinks list with a good range of wines and a selection of Greek inspired cocktails. The Garden Bar on the terrace offers a more extensive menu of beverages that can be enjoyed pre or post dinner.
As Pyro opens its doors, undoubtedly it has been fortunate to enjoy the mild May weather. The real test will be sustaining that Hellenic holiday mood. Early indications are that the impressive kitchen, along with the terrific staff, will do just that.
53b Southwark Street, London, SE1 1RU. Meal for two plus drinks about £150. Open Tuesday to Sunday 12pm – 1am (Sunday 11am to 9pm) pyrorestaurant.co.uk
Words by Penelope Johnson
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