Porto is a city that stays with you, long after you’ve departed. The Douro River winds through its heart, separating it from Vila Nova de Gaia, resting peacefully across the river. The Dom Luís I Bridge, an elegant iron and steel marvel with its graceful two-tiered arches, stretches across the water like an unspoken welcome, uniting two cities that, while distinct in character, are bound by the river’s timeless flow. Despite their differences, Porto and Gaia coexist in a seamless harmony, their stories naturally intertwined.
First Impressions: Strength and Grace
At first glance, Porto presents itself with strength. The towering Sé Cathedral, with its commanding presence, sits at the heart of the city, while São Bento Station, with its grand blue-tiled murals depicting scenes of Portugal’s history, offers an introduction to Porto’s rich past. But step off the main streets, into the quieter lanes, and Porto begins to reveal its more delicate side: linen billowing from balconies, the scent of roasting chestnuts drifting through narrow alleyways, and the sound of neighbours chatting across sunlit streets.
A City of Dualities
Porto is a city of contrasts, where opposites not only coexist but complement each other. It is vibrant, yet moves at a relaxed pace. Its streets, filled with energy, hold a certain roughness, while the city’s spirit remains undeniably elegant.
Crossing the Dom Luís I Bridge brings you into Gaia, where life seems to slow even further. Here, the day’s rhythm is dictated by the leisurely enjoyment of port wine and sardines, best sampled in the many port houses along the riverbanks, including Ferreira, Sandeman, and Graham’s. These historic cellars, some dating back centuries, offer tours starting at 25€/£21.20, that take you into the heart of Porto’s most famous export. The air is heavy with the scent of oak barrels and time. Locals often recommend a tour of Ferreira Caves, and it doesn’t disappoint. There are a variety of options to suit different budgets and timeframes. For history lovers, Kopke, the oldest port house, offers a richly atmospheric experience.
Sunset at Jardim do Morro
As the evening draws near, the Jardim do Morro, a public park on the Gaia side, becomes a gathering place for locals and tourists alike. With plastic cups of wine in hand, they sit on the grassy slopes, chatting, laughing, and strumming guitars. The view across the river to Porto is spectacular, with the sun setting behind the city’s patchwork rooftops, casting the sky in hues of gold and lilac. It’s an unhurried, timeless moment that captures the essence of Porto perfectly.
Eating and Drinking the Porto Way
In Porto, food is about more than just eating, it’s about sharing, savouring, and being present. Start your day with a pastel de nata and a strong espresso at a cosy café.The city’s markets, such as Mercado Beira-Rio, are vibrant hubs of local produce. Sample small plates of cheese, cured meats, and fresh seafood, accompanied by a glass of vinho verde, the city’s signature light, refreshing wine. From there, hop on the historic tram (Lines 1 or 18) and ride it along the coast to Praia Foz (9€/£7.60 return ticket ) where you can enjoy a cocktail (10€/£8.40) and sunset view from Hotel Boa Vista.
For something heartier, head to Brasão, famous for its francesinha, a decadent, meat-stacked sandwich in rich tomato sauce, typically served with crispy fries (15€/£12.75) and make sure to share a side of the light yet crispy onion flower (10€/£8.40). Or try O Freitas, a family-run spot known for perfectly grilled octopus, charred just right, with a squeeze of lemon and drizzle of olive oil (18€/£15.20). And of course, no visit to Porto would be complete without trying bacalhau, Portugal’s iconic salt cod. There’s a saying that in Porto there are 365 ways to prepare bacalhau, one for each day of the year. For a classic and delicious take, visit Adega São Nicolau in the Ribeira district, order the bacalhau à Brás (15€/£12.75), shredded cod with onions, potatoes, and egg.
As night falls, Porto comes alive with music. You’ll hear street musicians playing fado, Portugal’s hauntingly beautiful traditional music, and conversations spilling from cafés and bars. For a deeper fado experience, visit Clube Real do Fado, an iconic and welcoming venue adored by both locals and tourists.
Viewpoints and Reflections
For a peaceful view over the city, climb Torre dos Clérigos (tickets cost 9€/£7.60), Porto’s most recognisable landmark. From the top, the city stretches out in a maze of cobbled streets, the Douro River slicing through like a ribbon of dark silk. At night, the city sparkles, its rooftops glowing under the stars.
Alternatively, slip into one of Porto’s many historic churches, there are sixty to choose from. An excellent choice is Igreja de São Francisco, a Gothic church, and museum, with a deceptively simple exterior that gives way to an astonishingly ornate Baroque interior. Its gilded wood carvings shimmer in the half-light, offering a moment of stillness and awe, an ideal retreat from the buzz of the city outside.
The Magic of Porto
Porto doesn’t make a grand statement, but it leaves a lasting impression through its subtle moments. It’s the feeling of your footsteps echoing in the narrow, cobbled streets, the kindness of strangers who offer directions without hesitation, and the ever-present river that seems to pull you back to the city time and time again. Porto isn’t a place you visit once and leave behind. It’s a city you come to know gradually, in layers, each visit revealing a little more of its character, until one day, it feels like home.
Words by Tara Russell
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