Sicily captivates the imagination of many with its sandy beaches, the iconic places of “The Godfather”, and the remnants of ancient Rome and Greece.
The streets are busy with cars speeding and mopeds overtaking each other from every direction; the centres of the largest cities like Catania or Palermo are crowded and noisy. Yet somehow, travelling to Sicily feels like pressing the reset button. The pace of life is slow, such a difference compared to the rhythm that many of us deal with and it takes you back to the core things in life. The tranquility encourages you to put things into perspective and think about how much there is to enjoy.
Coastal Towns to Love
The fishing village of Acitrezza is a standout spot on the Ionian coast. Eight large rocks, known as Cyclopean islands, emerge from the sea and stand tall as the waves crash powerfully into them. The small harbour with its many fishing boats represents the town’s long history and a walk on the promenade awakens your senses, with the vibrant colours of the fichi d’india (prickly pairs) against the bright blue of the sea.
Next to Acitrezza, Aci Castello is a coastal town whose main attraction is a Norman castle situated on top of a large volcanic rock. As you walk over the main square, overlooking the sea, embrace the relaxed yet lively vibe that characterises this small town, bustling with locals enjoying the sea breeze. During the summer, sun decks are arranged on the lava rock, providing a relaxing and unique seaside escape, with many restaurants, bars and ice cream parlours to give you a taste of authentic Sicilian experience.
The Jewel in the Crown: Mount Etna
Rifugio Sapienza, which lies north of Nicolosi at 1,900m above sea level, offers a taste of what the barren volcanic land looks like: a vast black desert that emanates the destructive power of the volcano.
The road to Rifugio Sapienza from Nicolosi is a wonder in itself, meandering through century-old lava flows, between the active craters standing above, and the sea opening wide below.
The north-eastern side is considerably less touristy but offers equally stunning landscapes. The thick forests lining the road to Sartorius craters are a stark contrast to the desolation of the southern side, and so are the white birch trees gleaming against the black lava. Small, tranquil towns dot this side of Etna. Among them is Zafferana Etnea, known for its cool summer evenings and its honey, which comes from orange blossoms, eucalyptus and wildflowers, harvested through artisanal methods. Milo, with its narrow streets and the terrace offering astonishing views of Etna and the sea, and Puntalazzo, a tiny village with the best hazelnut granita you can find (you will not miss the cafe as it is the only one!).
These areas of Etna National Park can be easily reached by car and there is no entrance fee. Rifugio Sapienza, however, applies parking charges, which range from €0.80/£0.67* for one hour to €4/£3.36 for the whole day. If you do not have a car, Rifugio Sapienza can be reached from Catania by public transport (€6.60/£5.50 for a return ticket) and organised tours are also available throughout the National Park, with prices starting from €50/£42.
Culture and Entertainment
Crazy traffic aside, Catania is a vibrant city, bustling with shops, cafés, restaurants, and a university, making the city a cultural and entertainment hub. One thing not to miss is the Fera ‘o Luni, (literally “The Monday Fare”), the daily market taking place in Piazza Carlo Alberto. Although the market has become a tourist attraction, it still captures the essence of life on the island and doesn’t fail to fascinate me every time. After hours spent wandering around the market, a Mandarino al Limone is what you need to re-energise. A local specialty made of lime juice, soda water and mandarin syrup, it’s truly thirst-quenching and refreshing, and although it can be found all around Catania province (prices ranging between €1.50/£1.26 – €2.00/£1.68), Chiosco Giammona in Catania city centre knows no rivals.
The Best Food to Try
Starting with breakfast, granita beats any coffee and croissant. Creamier than crushed ice, but not quite ice-cream, granita is a frozen mix of fruit, sugar and water. The smooth, almost silky texture feels delicately refreshing, combined with the vivid, intense flavours of natural ingredients. As granita is too dense to drink, the best way to enjoy it is by scooping it with a brioche, a slightly sweet bread roll, best when served warm. My favourite places are Alecci in Gravina di Catania, L’Ottagono in Mascalucia and Bar Aiello in Sant’Agata li Battiati. For truly Sicilian flavours, try pistachio and gelsi (mulberries). Average price is typically €5/£4.20.
Although Italy is known for its copious meals and hours spent sitting around a table, colleagues and friends meeting up for a quick lunch often opt for Tavola Calda, literally “hot table”, which is Sicilian street food. The name encompasses a variety of local specialties such as arancini, pizzetta, cartocciata (a soft pasty typically filled with ham and cheese), and cipollina (puff pastry filled with onions, tomato sauce, cheese and ham). Available to buy across most bars and ranging in price between €1.50/£1.26 – €2.50/£2.10.
At least one dinner should be dedicated to apericena. The name combines the words aperitivo, the pre-dinner ritual that has become so popular in and outside Italy, and cena (dinner). The result is a whole new concept where your choice of drink is served alongside a wide range of Italian dishes, resembling a buffet. An alternative version, and a must-go, is Ristorante Giancarlo Barone in Aci Castello for an aperifish (€18/£15), where you can indulge yourself in several fish-based dishes. Note that this restaurant does not serve aperifish on Saturdays!
Sicily is full of contradictions and stereotypes, some of which your visit will confirm, whilst others will be challenged. Although a few days in Sicily are not enough to explore the island and take in its many faces, Catania and its province are a great starting point for a taste of all the things Sicily has to offer.
*All prices are converted at time of writing, 27th May 2025. Prices may vary depending on season.
Words by Flavia Sangers-Di Natale
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