Often overlooked for its ostentatiously impressive neighbours – Venice, Florence and foodie favourite, Bologna – Ravenna’s discreet charms are well worth exploring. The city’s historical importance, proximity to the coast and significance as a UNESCO world heritage site, means it has much to offer.
Positioned in the Emilia-Romagna region of north-eastern Italy, this former capital city of the Western Roman Empire, offers a welcome retreat away from the crowds. Be you an art and architecture enthusiast, a lover of Italian cuisine or if you simply want to wander through the old historic centre or relax on the beach, Ravenna is your perfect destination.
Marvel at the City of Mosaics
Ravenna’s astonishing Byzantine mosaics have been sure to secure its UNESCO world heritage status. Found in monuments and churches throughout the city, these exquisite works of early Christian art – made from coloured and gold leaf glass, stone, ceramic and marble – remain stunningly fresh and vivid.
Visit the impressive Basilica di San Vitale. Rich with imagery, the mosaics depict stories from the Old and New Testament as well as the ethereal figures of Emperors Theodoric and Justinian. They provide a fascinating insight into political power and Roman hierarchy.
Equally worthy of your time is Mausoleo di Galla di Placidia – one of Ravenna’s oldest buildings – and intended to be the resting place of empress Galla Placidia. The unassuming exterior does little to prepare you for inside – stunningly beautiful mosaics covering every surface. Guided tours, both day and night (€28/£24.30) can be booked through www.visitravenna.it.
For a more modern take on mosaic artistry visit MAR – Art Museum of the City of Ravenna, open Tuesday-Saturday 9am-6pm Sunday 3pm-7pm, tickets €6/£5.20, students €3/£2.60. Here you will find contemporary artists reinterpreting ancient mosaic techniques through a range of mediums.
Explore Ravenna’s Literary Legacy
Italian poet Dante Alighieri’s ‘Divine Comedy’ is considered by many to be the greatest Italian literary work. Dante spent his final years in Ravenna and Museo Dante, Casa Dante, open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-5:30pm, combined ticket €5/£4.35 and his burial place, Dante’s Tomb, provide a comprehensive insight into his life and work.
In contrast to the devout figure of Dante, the “mad, bad and dangerous to know” Lord Byron spent several years in Ravenna. A controversial figure, both during his lifetime and up to this day, Byron wrote some of his most well-regarded works, including parts of Don Juan, whilst living in the city. His former home, Palazzo Guiccioli, is now the Museo Byron, open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-6pm, €10/£8.70, students €5/£4.35.
Head for the Coast
Had your fill of culture, then why not consider heading to the beach? The district of Ravenna stretches along the breathtaking Adriatic coast and is blessed with an impressive nine beaches offering a range of experiences depending on your mood.
For a typical Italian beach experience Marina di Ravenna is perfect. Frequented by locals, the super-chilled Big Mama Beach is one of many beach clubs offering sunbeds, parasols and showers, open 8am-11pm, €20/£17 for two beds and a parasol. A fantastic menu offers fresh salads (€12/£10.40) generous plates of delicious pasta (€17/£14.70) and local seafood (€20/£17.40).
For a more natural, secluded experience head to the sandy dunes of Lido di Dante found near the mouth of River Bevano. If you fancy more action, then Porto Corsini is perfect for kitesurfing and paddleboarding. Marina di Ravenna and Porto Corsini can be easily reached by bus from outside Ravenna train station, 20 minutes, €2/£1.75. Lido di Dante is a 15 minute taxi ride away costing €20/£17.
Enjoy an Excursion
Less than 20 minutes away by train (€7/£6 return) Cervia is a popular seaside resort favoured by Italian holidaymakers. Spend a perfect day wandering along the canal or visit Piazza di Garibaldi and the fisherman’s neighbourhood with its charming old houses. For a laid-back lunch enjoy freshly grilled fish (€15/£13) at the bustling Osteria La Ciurma, Tuesday-Sunday 12-2:30pm, 7-10:30pm.
The charming city of Ferrara – also granted UNESCO world heritage status – is an hour from Ravenna by train, €14.60/£12.70 return. One of the most impressive features of the city is its variety of architectural styles. From narrow medieval streets and arched alleyways to the Renaissance splendour of Palazzo dei Diamanti. Make sure to visit Palazzo Schifanoia for its remarkable 15th century frescoes and the fascinating history behind them. It is open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-7pm, ticket €12/£10.40, students €9/£7.80
Epicurean Emilia-Romagna
No visit to Ravenna would be complete without sampling local speciality piadina. This unleavened flatbread, stuffed with a variety of delicious fillings, is a meal in itself. Profumo di Piadina: Laboratorio del Palato, open 11am-3pm, offers an extensive menu including Squacquerone DOP – a regional soft cheese €4.50/£3.90, Romagnolo salami €4.50/£3.90 or grilled vegetables and sweet gorgonzola €5.50/£4.80.
Enjoying a cone or cup of gelato in the evening is an Italian, national pastime. One of Ravenna’s best gelaterias, Gelati Alegri, open 10am-midnight, offers a bespoke range of freshly made gelato including vegan options and granita €3/£2.60 small cone, 2 scoops. Another favourite with both locals and visitors, Papilla 11am-midnight offers inspired flavours – one of their most recent additions is a delicious version of Dubai chocolate gelato.
For a one stop emporium that fulfils all your culinary needs visit Mercato Coperto, open every day 9am-midnight. Here you will find stylish bars and restaurants alongside stalls selling local produce and gifts to take home.
Getting Around Ravenna
With a pedestrianised centre Ravenna lends itself perfectly to gentle ambling. Why not take a lead from locals and hire a bike to explore Ravenna’s extensive network of cycle lanes? Ecocentrico offer a range of bikes starting at €35/£30.40 per day.
To reach towns outside Ravenna, including the beaches, take a bus from outside Ravenna Train Station – contactless payment is accepted with an average one-way journey costing €2/£1.75. Italy’s impressive train service is reliable, affordable and a great way to travel further afield. Return tickets cost the same as two one-way tickets, allowing you the flexibility to arrive and leave as you wish.
One thing is for sure. Having enjoyed the seductive charms of Ravenna and the wider region of Emilia-Romagna, you will return time and again.
Words by Penelope Johnson
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