When people think of a witch, they often picture a green-skinned, wart-nosed hag with a black cat for company — a caricature shaped by pop culture. The reality is, victims of witch trials weren’t fairy-tale villains, but real women and men who simply didn’t fit into society’s status quo.
Salem, Massachusetts, draws visitors worldwide with its dark history and vibrant modern-day celebrations. Among these is Summerween, a summer version of Halloween, made by the Disney series Gravity Falls, that has taken off on social media. With this year’s celebration falling on 22 June, it brings a fresh reason to visit during the warmer months.
Having studied the Salem witch trials in-depth, and even naming my dog after the town, visiting felt like the natural next step.
Brief History of the Trials
The Salem witch trials spanned just over a year from 1692 to 1693, a time of mass hysteria that resulted in the executions of 19 people and the imprisonment of around 150 others. The accused were often women who challenged social norms, such as midwives or social outsiders, who became victims of deep-rooted fear, misogyny and religious extremism. Unlike Europe, where Enlightenment thinking had begun to push back on witchcraft accusations, colonial America remained gripped by these tensions which ultimately led to this brewing pot of hysteria.
Modern-day Salem
Today, Salem is largely considered the most-visited witch trial site in the world. The Peabody Essex Museum reported over one million tourists per year, far surpassing visitor figures at other infamous witch trial locations, and it is clear to see why. The town has turned its history into a Halloween spectacle, and even in June, buzzes with spooky spirit.
October is the peak season, with Essex Street packed full of market stalls, lights and costumes. Yet Halloween spirit thrives throughout the year, with shops selling everything from crystals and spell books to gothic decor and horror-themed trinkets. Many tap into Wicca aesthetics, with hanging pumpkins, flickering candles and potion-like scents that immerse you in a world of whimsy. It’s kitschy, but in a way that feels unique to Salem.
Summerween
Visiting in June means missing the Halloween crowds, but thanks to Summerween, the town still offers plenty of seasonal charm. This unofficial holiday has taken off on social media, encouraging people to carve watermelons instead of pumpkins, enjoy spooky-themed snacks and binge horror movies under the summer sky.
Although I did not spot any carved fruit, themed goodies were in full array, my personal favourite being “Brain Juice” (really, just orange and strawberry juice), which I picked up for around $4–$6 (£3–£4.75) at the Black Cat Curiosity Shoppe, where spooky music, movie memorabilia and the occasional costumed local added to the charm.
Fans of Hocus Pocus won’t want to miss a visit to Allison’s House, the Ropes Mansion, located just outside of Essex Street. While the interior isn’t open to the public, visitors are welcome to wander its beautiful, free-to-access garden. Whether or not you’ve recently rewatched the film, it’s a charming and fitting stop for a Summerween-themed itinerary.
Spectacle or Substance?
While Salem embraces its spooky identity, there are valid concerns about whether the town risks prioritising spectacle over historical accuracy. With such a dark past, it’s important that commemoration doesn’t get lost beneath the theatrics.
Thankfully, that wasn’t the case. Many of the shops felt authentic, not mass-produced replicas but independently owned spaces with their own character.
Take, for example, The Coven’s Cottage, a Viking-inspired herbal store, that doesn’t allow phone use inside. Instead, it encourages conversation about the healing properties of different remedies. It felt personal, respectful and grounded.
Remembrance
Salem does embrace its dark branding, but there’s an effort to balance the fun with reverence. There are visible acknowledgements throughout the town that it sits on stolen land, once home to the Naumkeag tribe, and that the story of Salem is more than just witches and whimsy.
A must-visit site in Salem is the Salem Witch Trials Memorial, situated beside the Old Burying Point Cemetery, the site features 19 simple stone slabs, each inscribed with the name and date of death of those executed during the trials. At the entrance to the memorial, the words read:
“Oh Lord, help me. God knows I am innocent. If I would confess I save my life. I am wholly innocent of such wickedness. I do plead not guilty.”
Fresh flowers often rest on the stones, left by visitors paying quiet tribute. It’s a haunting yet powerful experience that highlights that the victims haven’t been forgotten.
More than a Halloween Town
Salem is multifaceted. It educates, mourns and celebrates its past all at once. While the commercialisation of witches is going nowhere, it feels in many ways like a way of keeping the victims’ memories alive.
You may not leave Salem with a broomstick, though that’s certainly an option, but you’re likely to return home with a deeper understanding of its history, along with a few new decorations to mark Summerween in your own way. With its blend of whimsy and reverence, Salem easily earns its place as a top-tier destination for a spooky summer escape and the perfect excuse to celebrate Summerween.
Words by Libby Jennings
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